I built
a rack to hold all three tanks and keep a total of 1800 pounds of
water from moving around in stop and go traffic. The last thing you
want is 65 gallons of poop on the loose! I can wait until spring to
get all the plumbing done.
With
that completed, I moved inside to get the floor ready for vinyl
flooring. -I used 2 gal. of Bondo to fill all the floor seams and
counter sunk bolts. Then the belt sander to finish. After four
days on my hands and knees, the floor is now smooth and ready for
vinyl floor covering.
I got a
new steering wheel! It's a 17” all aluminum, no dish, Joe's Racing
wheel. The first fit of a new dash went well. I'm ready to
temporarily install the gauge pod and gauges and begin wiring some of
the switches and gauges.
I wanted
some Art Deco touches to the outside of the bus in addition to the
cool front and rear roof running lights, so I designed side marker
lights that had a little more style than the original. I found a guy
on line that has a water jet cutting machine in Battle Creek. I took
him my drawing and dimensions. We converted it to a CAD drawing and
cut the pieces out of 3/16 aluminum in less than an hour – start to
finish. The actual cutting time was less than 10 min. The machine
cuts the metal using a 60,000 psi water jet. Total cost - $40.00.
I
started on the rear window. Replacement window for the rear are
nonexistent. I'm going to replace it with fiberglass-over-foam that
will look like the original window with a dark tint. Got the foam
cut and inserted into window frame and then sealed all the seams and
edges with a can of foam insulation. Next step is to sand to the
contour of the original window, then lay up fiberglass over the foam,
finish sand, and then paint it to look like a tinted window. Sounds
easy enough. I wanted to paint somebody looking out the back window,
but Teri says that would be tacky. I'm thinking Yoda waving...
Dash is ready to install and begin wiring to engine, lights, sending units, etc. Not to worry. All the wires are labeled. I had to crimp 60 socket pins onto the red and black wires, then insert into blank sockets, then label them to match the sockets on the dash.
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