THE DOOR,

So, I thought I'd zero in on one “small” part of the project and go through it in detail to give a sense of all the little things that go into getting it done. I feel I've been too general in the past and have failed to convey the real “meat” of the process. I apologize for that oversight.

Click to enlarge

The entry door was in pretty bad shape and the more I looked at it, the more things I saw needed fixing. So, I removed the door and put it up on the "work bench".

THE WORK LIST:

Remove broken window and save for template. I'll cut a new window out of Lexan.

Remove the beat-up bottom panel and replace with new aluminum sheet.

Repair the seam along the front of the door that separated from the outer skin.

Replace broken section at the bottom corner.

Install a keyed dead bolt lock.

Bump out or fill several dents.

Make door edges straight and smooth for proper gasket seal.

Sand and paint hinges (still on the bus)

Reinstall door
Replace 1.25 in. steel door jamb.

Install new door seals.

So I'm thinking three 8hr. days to completion. Turns out this was a 2x project – it took six days.

Day One: Remove the door from the bus. Removed the old window glass and the beat-up panel on the bottom of the door. Go to Alro Metals and buy sheet aluminum to replace the bottom panel and another piece to replace the inside door panel. I had to cut large holes in this panel in order to bump out the dents.

Day Two:

Riveting bottom panel

90° bend at one end

I cut the bottom door panel using the old piece as a template, then made a 90° bend at one end, then drilled and riveted the new panel onto the door.

Bottom panel replaced

Next was reattaching the steel

window frame to the door. .

Then using automotive epoxy
 panel adhesive,  I repaired
 the separated door skin seam
 It took me awhile to figure out 
a way to pull the edge of the
 panel into the door skin
 channel. I know it looks
 hillbilly, but it worked. 

This epoxy hardens very slowly – like 24 hrs. so while that was curing, I sanded the window frame.

Day Three:

Glued a couple of eighth inch thick aluminum patches along the door edge. One to reinforce the deadbolt placement, and one to repair a fatigue crack. Cut access holes in inner panel to bump out dents. Bumped out dents. Replaced small missing piece at bottom of the door. Bondoed front and back door edges to make them smooth and straight to ensure a good seal against the door frame gaskets. 

Day Four:

I had the large panel for the inside of the door cut at Alro, so all I had to do here was drill, countersink, and screw the panel to the door. 

Went to the hardware store and bought a keyed deadbolt lock. I took it apart and replaced the brass trim with aluminum that I cut out using a couple of hole saws. Cut holes in the door for the deadbolt and installed in the door.

Day Five:

I'm gett'n close here.. Sanded all the Bondo and primered the edges and the steel window frame. Sanded the door hinges on the bus, sprayed with fill primer and sanded again.  Then one more coat of primer. Sanded again, then painted the hinges blue. This isn't the final paint, but it'll seal the primer and keep it from rusting.

Day Six:

Bolted door to hinges! Reinstalled door opener. 

Still to be done:
Install new steel door jamb. 
Drill hole for the dead bolt.
Install door seals
Install Lexan (I put in a temporary sheet of insulation board for now).

Since it has been so warm out, I shaped the rear window foam board replacement, and put a skim coat of Bondo over it.  I'll probably have to wait 'til Spring to lay up the fiberglass.  Too cold to get a good cure.  I'm looking for a building I can rent for a month or so.  That would allow me to finish the window and paint the bus.